“MERCI BOCUSE”
PAUL BOCUSE, Lyon, France
16 August, 2013
This is a great restaurant, but then you probably knew that! After all, Paul Bocuse has held three Michelin stars for almost half a century. So let me tell you why I loved it.
You might expect a restaurant with such a reputation for its great food and astonishingly high prices to be stiff, formal and intimidating. Far from it. Restaurant Paul Bocuse is relaxed, and clearly all the customers from the dark-suited businessman, the smart but casually dressed couples, to the happy five-year-old celebrating his birthday with parents, grandparents and occasionally squeaky brother, appeared comfortable.
This welcoming atmosphere meant that by the end of the meal we actually ended up talking to the French couple on our neighbouring table who were celebrating their move to Lyon from Paris. A wide-ranging discussion ensued in a mixture of English and French. Among other things we agreed the food was great and that not all was well with the European Union!
The staff are efficient and, thankfully, neither snooty nor overly friendly. The waiters are discreetly attentive without being irritatingly solicitous and they exude a calmness which helps to create the relaxed atmosphere.
The restaurant building, which looks somewhat bizarre from the outside, is actually warm and welcoming inside. The decor is an eclectic and yet totally successful mish-mash of styles.
You certainly could not use the term mish-mash to describe the highly traditional French cuisine. It is consistent, perfectly executed and sets a standard for you to judge lesser chefs.
Of course it is ridiculously expensive, the basic Classic Menu is €149, or if you prefer to chose from the Carte the entrees range from €40 to €82 (truffles of course), and mains from €56 to €70. But once you have made the committment, just enjoy the best of traditional French cuisine.
The food is heavy, but the cooking and the flavours are perfect. A Quenelle of pike with crayfish and Cassolette of Lobster “a l’Amoricaine” are rich and filling, so go easy on the bread. The Fillet of beef Rossini is as advertised though the Perigueux sauce may have been a tiny bit salty for my taste. The Fricassee of Bresse chicken with Morel mushrooms is far better than you could expect from a breast of chicken in cream sauce.
The cheese board holds a good selection. I choose four and loved the Saint-Marcellin, a local soft cows’ cheese recommended by our waiter Bruno. He also was totally comfortable responding to my request to advise in which order to eat my chosen cheeses.
The French phrase “Piece de Resistance” has to be applied to the vast array of desserts. It was so big I had to get up and walk around the display which had been laid out on four serving tables placed by our table.
Clearly the biggest winner, at least one was chosen by each of the tables near us, was the massive “Oeufs a La Neige” with creme anglais. Illes Flotant will never be the same again. And then the waiter says quietly, “et avec ca?” Fresh raspberries seemed popular. My choice of fresh berries and fruit in a glass of beaujolais was startlingly good because of the interplay of flavours of fruit and vine. A small creme brule was the perfect counter-taste accompanient.
Ooops, nearly forgot the wine. The wine list is heavy, I mean literally the book of the wine list is physically heavy to hold. The cellar is really tempting, so if you are spending your money, be sensible. They do have a perfectly adequate list of half bottles around €40-upwards and if you say you just want a glass, a single large sheet is produced by the sommelier who is as enthusiastic about guiding you through the short list as the full book. A glass of champagne or a syrah to accompany your steak cost €18 a glass each. So a little nursing might be considered.
Now two cautions. If they ask you if the visit is for a special occasion, be aware that a “Yes” will result in the doorman in a red costume approaching your table to play music on a hurdy-gurdy while a clutch of waiters applaud you as they produce the cake and candle. If you say “no fuss please”’ you will still get the cake and candle, but only a couple of waiters applauding discreetly!
If they offer to bag the cake for you to take home say yes, because there is no way you can handle it as well as the cheese and the mega-dessert, the petit fours and the sherry-chocolate pot which arrived somewhere in the melange. (We ate it the next day and it was so delicious that VIcky exclaimed, “Merci Bocuse”!)
Second caution. Paul Bocuse is not easy to find, especially if your UK satnav refuses to accept Quai de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or as a legitimate address. Lost in Lyon we called the restaurant for help. They said use the satnav because “c’est tres difficile” to find. Well we knew that!
Fortunately our satnav finally relented and within 10 minutes we arrived at culinary heaven.
PAUL BOCUSE, Lyon, France
16 August, 2013
This is a great restaurant, but then you probably knew that! After all, Paul Bocuse has held three Michelin stars for almost half a century. So let me tell you why I loved it.
You might expect a restaurant with such a reputation for its great food and astonishingly high prices to be stiff, formal and intimidating. Far from it. Restaurant Paul Bocuse is relaxed, and clearly all the customers from the dark-suited businessman, the smart but casually dressed couples, to the happy five-year-old celebrating his birthday with parents, grandparents and occasionally squeaky brother, appeared comfortable.
This welcoming atmosphere meant that by the end of the meal we actually ended up talking to the French couple on our neighbouring table who were celebrating their move to Lyon from Paris. A wide-ranging discussion ensued in a mixture of English and French. Among other things we agreed the food was great and that not all was well with the European Union!
The staff are efficient and, thankfully, neither snooty nor overly friendly. The waiters are discreetly attentive without being irritatingly solicitous and they exude a calmness which helps to create the relaxed atmosphere.
The restaurant building, which looks somewhat bizarre from the outside, is actually warm and welcoming inside. The decor is an eclectic and yet totally successful mish-mash of styles.
You certainly could not use the term mish-mash to describe the highly traditional French cuisine. It is consistent, perfectly executed and sets a standard for you to judge lesser chefs.
Of course it is ridiculously expensive, the basic Classic Menu is €149, or if you prefer to chose from the Carte the entrees range from €40 to €82 (truffles of course), and mains from €56 to €70. But once you have made the committment, just enjoy the best of traditional French cuisine.
The food is heavy, but the cooking and the flavours are perfect. A Quenelle of pike with crayfish and Cassolette of Lobster “a l’Amoricaine” are rich and filling, so go easy on the bread. The Fillet of beef Rossini is as advertised though the Perigueux sauce may have been a tiny bit salty for my taste. The Fricassee of Bresse chicken with Morel mushrooms is far better than you could expect from a breast of chicken in cream sauce.
The cheese board holds a good selection. I choose four and loved the Saint-Marcellin, a local soft cows’ cheese recommended by our waiter Bruno. He also was totally comfortable responding to my request to advise in which order to eat my chosen cheeses.
The French phrase “Piece de Resistance” has to be applied to the vast array of desserts. It was so big I had to get up and walk around the display which had been laid out on four serving tables placed by our table.
Clearly the biggest winner, at least one was chosen by each of the tables near us, was the massive “Oeufs a La Neige” with creme anglais. Illes Flotant will never be the same again. And then the waiter says quietly, “et avec ca?” Fresh raspberries seemed popular. My choice of fresh berries and fruit in a glass of beaujolais was startlingly good because of the interplay of flavours of fruit and vine. A small creme brule was the perfect counter-taste accompanient.
Ooops, nearly forgot the wine. The wine list is heavy, I mean literally the book of the wine list is physically heavy to hold. The cellar is really tempting, so if you are spending your money, be sensible. They do have a perfectly adequate list of half bottles around €40-upwards and if you say you just want a glass, a single large sheet is produced by the sommelier who is as enthusiastic about guiding you through the short list as the full book. A glass of champagne or a syrah to accompany your steak cost €18 a glass each. So a little nursing might be considered.
Now two cautions. If they ask you if the visit is for a special occasion, be aware that a “Yes” will result in the doorman in a red costume approaching your table to play music on a hurdy-gurdy while a clutch of waiters applaud you as they produce the cake and candle. If you say “no fuss please”’ you will still get the cake and candle, but only a couple of waiters applauding discreetly!
If they offer to bag the cake for you to take home say yes, because there is no way you can handle it as well as the cheese and the mega-dessert, the petit fours and the sherry-chocolate pot which arrived somewhere in the melange. (We ate it the next day and it was so delicious that VIcky exclaimed, “Merci Bocuse”!)
Second caution. Paul Bocuse is not easy to find, especially if your UK satnav refuses to accept Quai de la Plage, Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or as a legitimate address. Lost in Lyon we called the restaurant for help. They said use the satnav because “c’est tres difficile” to find. Well we knew that!
Fortunately our satnav finally relented and within 10 minutes we arrived at culinary heaven.
